11/16/2023 0 Comments Blind hem![]() ![]() Navigating around corners such as the one at the underarm point, can be tricky and often result in the serger knife cutting a “notch” out of your seam. This will help it to begin feeding evenly and keep your fabric lined up correctly. When beginning your seam and placing your project under the presser foot, lift the presser foot and slide the garment as far under the foot as possible. Serge the two together with a ¼” seam allowance. Simply, place your tee with the bodice front and back right sides together, lining up the side seams and pin or clip along the side seam from hemline to sleeve hem. Once your garment is hemmed, we will sew the side seams. I always elongate my stitch length to a length of 5 and lower my presser foot pressure. When using a twin needle, you will simply use two separate spools of thread, one for each needle, as well as a bobbin thread. I prefer to use a stretch twin needle in the size 4.0/90. A twin needle is inserted in your machine the same way as a standard sewing needle, except it offers two needles rather than one. You can also choose to use a twin needle. Using a wash away hem tape can help stabilize your hemline and avoid wavy seams. I prefer the triple straight stitch, but the lightning bolt stitch is another popular choice. If you are constructing your garment on a standard sewing machine, you have a couple of hem options to choose from. I love the finished look of the blind hem! Plus, it’s strong and very stretchy, perfect for knit garments! Tips for Hemming on a Standard Sewing Machine Watch here as I walk you through just how easy is to create your own blind hem with your serger: Finally, pull the hem open and press well. Serge slowly and carefully following along your fold line. Your needle will be piercing the very edge of your fold. Keep the fold just to the left of the guide on the blindstitch foot. Carefully move your project over to the serger and serge along your folded edge. Press well one more time and clip or pin to hold your hemline in place. Next, flip your hemline under, allowing a ¼” portion of the free edge to peek out beneath the fold. I have also found that using spray starch helps the hemline hold a crisp press and stabilizes your hemline during construction. I have found that this works better along curved hemlines. I will be using a 5/8” hem allowance rather than the 1” hem allowance recommended in the pattern. I will be sewing the Seattle Shirt which you can download for FREE using the code BERNINASEATTLE. To begin your blind hem, place your tee on your surface with the wrong side facing up. If it does not, you may need to lower your left needle tension a bit. ![]() When you finish your hem you should be able to pull the fold open and, with stretching and steam pressing, get it to lay flat. Practice your blind hem on a scrap of knit fabric first to find the settings that work best for your serger. I set my left needle tension to a 2 but have heard that a 1 works better for some. Set up your serger for a three-thread overlock, removing the right needle, and then adjust the settings according to the chart pictured here. Hemming with a Blindstitch Foot Serger Settingsįirst, we need to attach the blindstitch foot and make a couple of adjustments to our serger settings. I love being able to achieve professional results with minimal effort! For today’s project, I will be using the blindstitch accessory foot on my bernette 64 AIRLOCK. I was recently introduced to the Blind Stitch foot, and it has quickly become one of my favorite accessories! Hemming with blind stitch foot produces a hem that is nearly invisible and accommodates the stretch in knit fabrics beautifully. There are many methods to choose from when hemming a knit garment, and I love playing around with new techniques. ![]() Now that our hemlines are even in length, we can jump into hemming our garment. Trim away any discrepancy so that both hemlines are even. Once you reach the hemline, you will be able to see if there is any discrepancy in length. Then follow along the side seam, lining up the front and back bodice, pinning as you go. Begin by lining up your sleeve hem and pinning. The first step to hemming your garment in the flat is to check that your bodice lengths are exactly the same on the front and back bodice. Let’s jump in and take a closer look at how hemming in the flat differs from hemming in the round and then move on to serging a blind hem. Generally, garments are hemmed in the round and this technique may be new to you. This will allow us to hem while the garment is still able to be placed flat on your surface. For this method we will be hemming in the flat and then sewing our side seams. Today we will be wrapping up our garment construction by hemming our garment on a serger with a blindstitch foot. Welcome to the fourth and final post in the series Tips for Sewing a Basic Tee. ![]()
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